Like most of the Tuscan hilltop fortresses, Volterra was built to be imposing and, the day we went there, it certainly was. We left Castellina because it was promising to rain all day and Volterra is a good 42km away over a range of hills behind San Gimignano. Once over the hills, the landscape changes completely; it's more rugged and dotted with volcanic plugs of which Volterra is one of the largest. This is the home of alabaster and there are the remains of old quarries around.
When we arrived, there were clouds but the sun was shining and it was verging on hot. But, as we walked through the town itself and it got darker and darker. The clouds were black and threatening and the narrow streets were closing in. We had just decided to have a wee snack in a pasticceria when there was a crack of thunder directly overhead and the rain came down in torrents. We were so lucky to get the last available table, next to the door so dangerously close to collecting unwanted raindrops, because there were people flooding in out of the rain and enterprising umbrella sellers appeared as if by magic.
When we arrived, there were clouds but the sun was shining and it was verging on hot. But, as we walked through the town itself and it got darker and darker. The clouds were black and threatening and the narrow streets were closing in. We had just decided to have a wee snack in a pasticceria when there was a crack of thunder directly overhead and the rain came down in torrents. We were so lucky to get the last available table, next to the door so dangerously close to collecting unwanted raindrops, because there were people flooding in out of the rain and enterprising umbrella sellers appeared as if by magic.
Our friend and the hungry one had brown foccacia panini; I've never seen that before - I will experiment when we get home.We really only went in for the sandwiches, but oh, the rain just didn't stop and the pastries looked so inviting that we ended up having rather large oozingly filled jam and custard doughnuts as well. We just had to. We couldn't justify keeping the table otherwise, could we?
When we finally decided we had to leave, it was still raining and, after we had wandered around in rain jackets and hoods for a few minutes, we decided we were really flogging a dead horse and we headed back to the car, and Castellina. Ironically, the only place that looked as if it might be dryish that day was Poggibonsi but that's a town for another day.
We don't often eat out when we're here and we've been having lots of very special treats in our wee let. We've had mussels - the first time I've ever cooked live mussels, and nobody died! Flush with success, we're having them again tonight. I've often mourned the lack of fresh fish and sea food here but the market in Castellina on a Saturday has a fish van. Sadly, most of his fish is fresh water - today he offered me perch - but it's not my favourite. He does have great prawns and mussels though so, mussels it is tonight.
Franco made pesto - yum - during the week and gave us two boxes. We had the first with lovely fresh pasta and some of the second box was used as part of the flavouring in a particularly scrummly Bolognese sauce last night; the rest will be used up.
Gianluca has fresh pecorino with truffle which is just delicious. I used some of that through the week and rolled it inside pork escalopes along with some sage. I rolled them in baking paper and tin foil then baked them. Along with rushed potatoes and Franco's yellow fagiolini - with a little of his pesto of course - they made rather a special meal.
Breakfast tomorrow will be more of the butcher's pork and truffle sausages with - I don't know. Something. Today, I also bought a chicken from the butcher - he cut off it's legs and head while I was there and then spatchcocked it for me. He says to roast it slowly because it's really quite a scrawny wee thing. I'm sure it will be stunning with a little garlic and herbs.
My plan is to upload the recipes once we get home - if I were busy doing that all the time here, I wouldn't be enjoying my holiday much, would I? It's a bit chilly for poolside today hence the reason, I'm here at all!
When we finally decided we had to leave, it was still raining and, after we had wandered around in rain jackets and hoods for a few minutes, we decided we were really flogging a dead horse and we headed back to the car, and Castellina. Ironically, the only place that looked as if it might be dryish that day was Poggibonsi but that's a town for another day.
We don't often eat out when we're here and we've been having lots of very special treats in our wee let. We've had mussels - the first time I've ever cooked live mussels, and nobody died! Flush with success, we're having them again tonight. I've often mourned the lack of fresh fish and sea food here but the market in Castellina on a Saturday has a fish van. Sadly, most of his fish is fresh water - today he offered me perch - but it's not my favourite. He does have great prawns and mussels though so, mussels it is tonight.
Franco made pesto - yum - during the week and gave us two boxes. We had the first with lovely fresh pasta and some of the second box was used as part of the flavouring in a particularly scrummly Bolognese sauce last night; the rest will be used up.
Gianluca has fresh pecorino with truffle which is just delicious. I used some of that through the week and rolled it inside pork escalopes along with some sage. I rolled them in baking paper and tin foil then baked them. Along with rushed potatoes and Franco's yellow fagiolini - with a little of his pesto of course - they made rather a special meal.
Breakfast tomorrow will be more of the butcher's pork and truffle sausages with - I don't know. Something. Today, I also bought a chicken from the butcher - he cut off it's legs and head while I was there and then spatchcocked it for me. He says to roast it slowly because it's really quite a scrawny wee thing. I'm sure it will be stunning with a little garlic and herbs.
My plan is to upload the recipes once we get home - if I were busy doing that all the time here, I wouldn't be enjoying my holiday much, would I? It's a bit chilly for poolside today hence the reason, I'm here at all!